Category Archives: Quick projects

Drill bit shelve

21/9/2013 – After all the arduous plane-building-manoeuvres, I decided to do something different before continuing with the unfinished Jointer and Shooting Plane. My Drill Press is at least 5 meters or so away from my assembly table were all of the drill bits I own lived until this weekend. This resulted in some serious calorie burning, while perambulating the workshop in order to provide the mentioned Drill Press with suitable dentures for it’s multifarious activities.

I therefore decided to build a austere drill bit shelve aimed at limiting my calorie expenditure. In the picture below you can see a collection of the drill bits I own in this particular year of our Lord.

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I found an old piece of timber that was salvaged from a sideboard that used to belong to my grandparents. I ripped it into the strips seen below. As it was a tad short of what was needed I ferreted around and found small pieces of Ysterhout and Witpeer to supplement the reclaimed timber.

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Here you can see the future arms of my humble elfin shelve.

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This picture indicates how I marked out the area to be removed from the set of arm-anchors (or maybe shoulders is a better term).

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Before removing it, I first drilled the holes for the screws that would eventually anchor the anchors.

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This gave me some much needed practice to saw to a line as you can see. The waste was then removed by chopping it out with a sharp chisel.

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With some careful pairing I managed to custom-fit the anchors to the vertical spine of the shelve.

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Here you can see the anchors glued and screwed to the spine.

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The unexpurgated spine-anchor-assembly was then fixed to the wall next to the Drill Press.

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I then attached the multitude of arms, most of which were already armed with it’s own array of drill bits, but some were left barren for future bit acquisitions.

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The arms swing towards the front to improve access to the bit of choice.

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Just another stunning idea from Je Ne Sais Quoi Woodworking.

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Glue roller

A problem I have encountered as a result of the very dry climate (ambient humidity 30-35% in my shop during winter months) and frequently needing to laminate heaps of small pieces of wood together has been the short open-time of the PVA glue I use. The reason why I need to laminate is the nature of the hardwood boards I have. There are very few of these boards that one can use as is. For most of them I need to cut a whole heap of smaller pieces to make up bigger ones by lamination. If you have a look at the post I wrote on my “Legvise with a twist” you can get a better idea of what I mean.

The problem then becomes one of trying to apply adequate amounts of PVA to all these surfaces and clamp before the glue dries. The first improvement  to my technique was to use a paintbrush to apply the PVA, rather than the off-cut (shaped like a spatula) of wood I used to use. Then I saw someone using a roller and it seemed so much more efficient. Problem was that the only ones I could find to buy was the ones supposed to be used for paint. They are soft and would absorb more glue than apply.

As per usual I then decided to modify an old paint roller to serve my specific needs to a tee. I turned the cylinder in the pictures below out of witpeer wood. In order to create an area that would be very resitant against wear I epoxied a penny-washer to both ends of the cylinder, as you can see below.

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Once that was set I tested the cylinder on an old paint roller handle. It seemed to work well.

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I then treated the wooden cylinder with more than ten coats of floor varnish thinned with mineral turpentine. This was an attempt to keep the worse of the moisture on the surface rather than in the wood, as using and cleaning a tool like this will inevitably expose it to lots of H2O.

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The final product has sped up my glue application with a vengeance.

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In action on a plane to be.

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11/11/2013 – Over the past week or so I improved the glue roller by removing the horrible plastic handle and replacing it with a shop turned witpeer one. If you are interested, I wrote an entire post on how I made these handles (mainly as file handles) under the hand tool category. The only way I could get rid of the plastic handle was to cut it away using my bandsaw. I then cut thread into the stainless steel rod that was left and screwed it into the handle with epoxy acting as cutting fluid.

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Here you can see how I applied a thick layer of epoxy to prevent any moisture from getting to the end grain.

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In order to hang the roller I lined a hole with this thin piece of copper pipe. After the epoxy dried I tidied up the protruding pipe and Bob’s your Uncle.

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Plane Hammer

In this post we will briefly return to a state of “Mallet Mania”. As you might remember I wrote one of my first posts on the first four mallets I made and called it “Mallet Mania”. This past weekend I made the fifth in the form of a specialised plane hammer. It was necessitated by the fact that my first wooden plane was getting close to being finished.

I therefore squeezed in some time dedicated to the hammer necessary to set the blade of my Petite Smoothing Plane (post to follow in the near future). As per usual, even the bits and pieces that are available to use for such tools is quite limited in Namibia. In the pictures below you can see what I started with. It is one of those copper rings that plumbers use to join copper water pipes.

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I chamfered the inside edge of the one side with a medium sized file.

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Then I took a piece of Kershout and Witpeer I laminated for the handle of my legvise, that was left over and turned the head of the hammer (far right) together with three file handles while I was at it. It was turned in such a way that one side was similar in diameter to the outside of the copper ring and the opposite side slightly smaller than the inside diameter tapering up to sightly bigger than that. The idea being that one could tap the ring over to fit tightly.

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Here you can see how far the ring slid over the wood without any force. I applied epoxy to act as a lubricant and adhesive before tapping it into place.

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To ensure that the ring had nowhere to go I cut a thin curve to accept a very slight wedge, which was taped in after applying Gorilla PVA wood glue.

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The sides of this wedge were trimmed flush …

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… and cut to length as shown below.

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The next step was to mark out were to drill the hole for the handle. I used a compass to scribe a circle 2 mm bigger than the hole drilled for the pin of the handle in order to have a reference of how much I should enlarge the hole on this side to accept another wedge.

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In order to drill the hole accurately I made this quick jig out of scrap plywood. The hammer’s head sits steady in the groove and held in place by the drill press vise.

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I used Kershout for the handle. Below you can see how I shaped the pin.

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Then I used a spoke shave, a rasp and a card scraper to shape the handle. It makes easy work of such a job.

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I then glued a small piece of sealskin to the one striking surface to give the option of a softer blow, when striking the wooden parts of the plane (as opposed to the plane iron).

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The final product prior to the usual Ballistol treatment.

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Reprobate Sealskin Strop

This is a straight forward hand tool that some might argue to have become obsolete, especially since the advent of devilishly fine waterstones used in conjuction with Nagura stones. However, to me it reminds of the days gone by, which creates a sense of being part of the traditions of the craft.

That is why I fashioned this sealskin strop. Before all the whiny greenies get on my back, I did not kill any seals for this purpose. I simply bought the skins at Nakara. As far as I know, Namibia has been involved in a sustained seal genocide to which more liberal societies have developed an aversion of note. As I see it, these seals were well and truly dead by the time I bought the skins, so I might as well honour their expired existence by creating a timeless heirloom tool with it. Come to think of it, in the light of the above I should probably warn sensitive readers that this post might contain disturbing images, if you are that way inclined.

As per usual I found a small piece of Assegaai for the job. The bandsaw was responsible for the rough shaping, before I took to it with a few files to round the areas forming the handle.

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I then used a card scraper to remove the file marks, which I can really recommend. It works like a charm for this purpose, as you can see from the pictures below.

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The area that would end up covered with sealskin, were then planed flat with a rehabilitated old Stanley Jack Plane. I wrote a comprehensive post on this particular endeavor, which you will find under the category of “Rehabilitation of old tools”.

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To make absolutely sure it was flat, I used 3M adhesive-backed sandpaper on glass to get it as close to perfect as possible. I used the technique of scribbling on the wood with a 2B pencil before sanding to identify the low spots. The job is done once all the pencil marks has disappeared as you can see in the last picture. I advise those sensitive types to stop reading at this point.

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Two sealskins as bought from Nakara. In the closeup picture you can appreciate that the leather is quite rough, which is probably wicked for this purpose.

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A magic marker was used to trace out the strips needed.

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I first glued the narrow strips to the sides …

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… then the wider strips.

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I used a very sharp chisel to remove a few untidy strips of leather and …

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… finally the usual treatment with Ballistol gave the Assegaai a beautiful sheen.

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Darwinian Sawhorse

In this post I want to document what must be officially the longest time it took me to get to the current product. These four saw horses were first built in 1999 when we still lived in South Africa. Essentially they consist of two scrap Swarthout frames joined at the apex by a single full length piano hinge. The frames were glued and screwed together using simple lap joints as seen below. The legs are restricted from opening up too far by bits of rope. I stapled an old piece of carpet to the apex to soften it up a bit for finishing tasks.

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In these pictures you can appreciate one of the major advantages of these saw horses. They can be stored out of the way taking up very little shop space, which is often a problem with this must-have shop aid. You can see how I made two wooden (scrap pine) brackets that keep them sitting on the wall quite happily. As an added bonus you can appreciate my 4 year old daughter’s art.

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In the first picture below you can see them lined up in front of the shop were they do most of their work these days. From the next couple of pictures it might be more apparent what one of the weaknesses of this type of sawhorse is. As you can see they used to be the legs of my work surface until I built the workbench/assembly table. You will find a whole series of posts on this project under the category “Bench” if you are interested.

Anyway, the weakness mentioned has to do with the fact that there is nothing that prevents these sawhorses from closing up. This is especially a problem when any pressure  is applied square in relation to the sawhorse and horisontally to the top or workpiece they support. This can be very frustrating and unsafe depending on the activity.

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In order to solve the above problem while wanting to keep the advantage of the sawhorse’s storability, I made the objects below that I do not have a good name for. They simply drop over the frame forming the lower part of the legs and completely curbs the problem discussed above.

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The next modification was done at the same time as the above. One of the most common tasks I use these sawhorses for is to cut rough boards with my Festool TS 55 Cirlcular Saw into more manageable chunks. For this purpose I made these sacrificial beams to sit on top of the sawhorse. They are easy to install and remove and allows me to have the rough boards very stable on the sawhorses, while not having to worry about cutting into them.

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Stingy storage ideas

For this post I took a few pictures of very basic and quick ways of organising your shop in such a way that the bits and pieces you are looking for are easily accessible at no cost or cheap at worse. I plan to keep adding to this post to create a major opus over time so check in from time to time if you find this useful.

In this picture you can see how an old 20 liter paint bucket becomes the ideal storage for T-channels (used for jig-building predominantly), copper pipe (used to make the ferrule around handtool handles), long strips of wood, treaded rod, etc etc.

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In this picture it is obvious how see-through water bottles (2 liter in this case) can become the ideal storage for small bits of scrap wood, which I find very useful to have at hand. It seems that most of the experts advise woodworkers to chuck these away, but I really find a job for most of them. I simply cut the top of the bottle away with a carpet knife and you can probably appreciate how the fact that it is transparent helps to locate the piece you need.

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These plastic containers slide onto each other and it is fairly easy to grab the one you want and walk off to the location where you need the contents. If they are available to buy in Namibia, I assume they should be widely available. I store all my steel wood screws and bolts in these. The gibberish that you can not read is Afrikaans, my mother tongue.

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In the centre of the picture below you can see another function for smaller see-through water bottles. I store smaller bits of threaded rod, steel, leather, assorted bolts and nuts, etc etc in these.

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Empty tins of chopped tomatoes, become ideal storage for for shorter flat strips of wood that resembles spatulas for applying glue or mixing epoxy etc, etc.

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The same tins screwed to a vertical part of a storage cabinet with a single screw becomes an easily accessible dwelling for pencils, magic markers, drill bits, etc,etc.

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In this picture you can see how my main tool storage “cabinet” looks like. It is actually a slightly modified whip-up of the crates my Dad built to transport the tools he passed on to me, but that is a story for another day. The yellow cary-case for my DeWalt cordless drill is what I want to discuss. It has two handy drawers with dividers at the bottom and a tray with various drill bits that fit on top of these dividers. The problem is that you first need to remove the tray before you can access the dividers area. I took the trays out and positioned them on top of the case. The drawers with dividers now house heaps of drill bits, router bits, and thread cutting bits all within easy reach next to my bench.

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In the example below, a scrap piece of pine with holes drilled into it, quickly and parsimoniously took care of 23 different hand tools. In the first picture you can see how I made a few tests with a pair of compasses to work out were to drill a hole with a Forstner bit to leave enough of a gap to accept a wide chisel. As you can see that it accommodates 8 chisels, two marking gauges, two calipers, three dividers, several small triangular files, several awls, a Lie-Nielsen float and a Stanley multi-bit screwdriver. Best is, that there is space for a few more and all that from one crappy piece of pine.

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While we are on the topic of scrap pieces of wood, here is another idea to store your F-style clamps in a small area, yet very assessable. I took a piece of scrap plywood and used my Festool Domino to cut 5 mm wide and 15 mm deep slots on one edge. I guess you can achieve the same with a table saw or a router. The domino made it easy because it took one plunge with the 5 mm bit and Bob’s your Uncle. The piece of plywood was then screwed to the front edge of the cabinet’s side. The shafts of my Bessey F-style clamps fit snugly into these slots. Once in the slot one can the slide the clamp to the closed position and BYU.

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Sandpaper storage

This past weekend I finally got round to building a small cabinet to house my sandpaper in an orderly fashion. I used scrap “shutterboard”, which is some really nasty stuff they sell in this part of the world as so called “plywood”. It is more fond of warping than a pig’s tail. To stabilise the shutterboard sides I used Supawood (MDF) for the back, some scrap chipboard for the base and top, and 3 mm hardboard (Masonite) for the dividers.

In the pictures below you can see how I used my Festool QF1400 router with a 3 mm straight bit to cut the dados. Please note the jig resembling a woodworking square used to guide the router. These are very easy to build as you can see. I might do a quick post on how to build them in the near future. You can also see how my assembly table is assisting in holding the work pieces. You can see the F-style clamps and benchdogs both utilising conveniently located dogholes. If you are interested to see how I built this assembly table, find the posts under the category “Bench”.

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Here you can see how I used the F-style clamps to fix one of the sides of the cabinet to the side of the table. The f-style clamps slide into the T-channel on the side of the table. I elevated the setup by using my Lie-Nielsen no. 4½ Smoother on it’s side. This is a very useful trick in lots of different situations. In this case I elevated the setup in order to get two scrap pieces of hardboard (Masonite) into the dados (as shown in the next set of pictures) to line the side and back up perfectly before screwing it together.

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You can see the scrap piece of hardboard in the first picture and how it helped lining up the dados perfectly in the next picture.

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Sliding the dividers in is easy if the dados are well lined up.

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Next I glued some Ysterhout edging to hide the chipboard, plywood and dados. This is a point were I disagree with most of the authorities who suggest that one should chuck away every bit of scrap wood left over from previous projects. Maybe it is a cultural thing, being born and raised in Africa, but chucking good wood away is absolutely against my grain (if you excuse the pun). Most of the projects I have written about so far on this blogsite were done utilising cutoffs, including every single part of this sandpaper storage cabinet. The chipboard that was used for the top and bottom of the cabinet were recycled from the crates my father build to transport his woodworking tools over a distance of 1800 km to my current shop. Before that it did duty in umpteen other cameos.

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Here you can see the cabinet in it’s final resting place. It sits under the so called “effulgent arm” in order for the mentioned lighting impedimenta to swing past it when necessary. I will write a post on the lighting arm in the near future. If you enlarge the last photo you can see how I indicated on the right hand side which grid of sandpaper goes where. On the top shelve (no unfortunately no booze) I keep the roles of 3M Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

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Shop humidity

On the podcasts I listen to the guys often refer to the ambient humidity in their shops. Namibia being a fairly dry country, but with a definitive rainy season would have quite a dramatic shift in humidity between summer and winter I thought. The question is how much and exactly what is happening in my shop?

The reason why I first thought about recording this was when I heard this one guy (can not remember who) suggest that one should consider building one wooden plane for winter and one for summer to cut down on the amount of tuning that needs to be done secondary to wood movement. I am currently in the process of research and information collection before embarking upon a wooden plane building spree.

I thought I should therefore start to collect data on the changes in humidity in my shop. In the pictures below you will see the small electronic device I use to record the temperature and humidity. It is able to record the current, maximum and minimum for both humidity and temperature.

I record the maximum and minimum each time I am in the shop on the chart pictured. Once in a while I would then enter this data into a database I have built using Filemaker. The database then calculates the averages for whatever time frame you are interested in, be that a month, a season or a year. Of course I first need to collect a year’s data to do the latter.

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Temperatue and humidity chart

 

 

I might write a very brief post from time to time reporting on the actual humidity trends in the shop. So far I found the following:

March 2013 – Average Minimum Temperature 24.7°C Average Maximum Temperature 30.2°C Average Minimum Humidity 21.5% Average Maximum Humidity 34.4%

April 2013 – Average Minimum Temperature 17.9°C Average Maximum Temperature 25.6°C Average Minimum Humidity 29.6% Average Maximum Humidity 44.3%

May 2013 – Average Minimum Temperature 15.6°C Average Maximum Temperature 22.5°C Average Minimum Humidity 28.4% Average Maximum Humidity 36%

15/1/2015

I did not manage to record any data in 2014, so one of my New Year’s Resolutions is to get back into the habit. I did however manage to enter the data for the rest of 2013 in order to calculate the averages.

June 2013 – Average Minimum Temperature 12.4°C Average Maximum Temperature 18.6°C Average Minimum Humidity 31.3% Average Maximum Humidity 35.6%

July 2013 – Average Minimum Temperature 11.7°C Average Maximum Temperature 19.5°C Average Minimum Humidity 31% Average Maximum Humidity 35.5%

August 2013 – Average Minimum Temperature 13°C Average Maximum Temperature 22.2°C Average Minimum Humidity 28.2% Average Maximum Humidity 34.7%

September 2013 – Average Minimum Temperature 14.7°C Average Maximum Temperature 25°C Average Minimum Humidity 28.1% Average Maximum Humidity 39.9%

October 2013 – Average Minimum Temperature 21°C Average Maximum Temperature 29°C Average Minimum Humidity 23.3% Average Maximum Humidity 31.2%

November 2013 – Average Minimum Temperature 22.1°C Average Maximum Temperature 30.6°C Average Minimum Humidity 23.2% Average Maximum Humidity 37.1%

It’s a dowel plate mate

This is another brief post explaining how to make a very handy hand tool in no time. If you are in need of custom made dowels, this is a very useful tool. As usual I got this idea from Lie-Nielsen.

All you need is a scrap piece of steel. I took this chunk of steel left over from another project and drilled 5 holes starting at 10 mm increasing by 0.5 mm at a time up to 12 mm.

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The idea is to cut square strips of wood slightly bigger than needed, shape it a smidgen with a plane …

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… and tap it through the holes, starting with the biggest that would accept the blank and moving down to the size intended. In the pictures below you can see how I made the dowels for my mallet. If you want to know more about the process of building the mallet, see the post titled “Mallet Mania”.

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… and voilà, some custom Witpeer dowels!!!

 

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Card scraper holder

This is a quick post showing an easy way to store your card scrapers so that they become very accessible. Until I made this high-tech holder my card scrapers were hiding in a leather wallet type of thing. That old saying that goes “out of sight out of mind”, applied and I often forgot that these handy tools would be idea for a particular job.

In the pictures you can see my set of Lie-Nielsen scrapers resting on the leather pouch while dreaming about their new luxurious abode. I took a piece of laminated Asseggai/Witpeer left over from my legvise project and tidied it up somewhat. In order to cut really thin curves to ensure that the scrapers will not wobble too much, I used this as a hand sawing exercise. My Lie-Nielsen carcass saw cuts a very thin curve, which only accepted the thin scrapers not the thicker versions.

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My custom made Tamboti marking knife came in handy to mark out the cuts. (Please see www.jenesaisquoiwoodworking.com/tamboti-and-witels-marking-knives if you want to read the post on how I made the marking knife) I left the rest of the block of wood untouched for now. It might become the home of scrapers of different shapes that I still plan to make once I find a suitable piece of steel, like an old saw blade.

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You can see how I practiced the skill of sawing to a line using a benchhook.

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The results for all to see. It is certainly not perfect but good enough for this purpose and gave me a bit of practice.

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As usual the product was finished off with some Ballistol and Bob’s your Uncle.

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